Basement sewage tank installation

Doing so risks damaging the wiring and voiding the pump warranty. Lift the pump by the steel handle or attachment intended for that purpose. As the sewage grinder pump motor is oil filled, no lubrication or other maintenance is required, and generally will give very reliable service and can be expected to operate for years on normal sewage pumping without failing.

However as with any mechanical piece of equipment a preventive maintenance program is recommended and suggested to include the following checks:. Watch out : even a sewage grinder pump is not immune from becoming blocked or damaged by mineral debris, septic tank or holding tank debris, or solids that people may flush down a drain such as condoms, wipes, even cotton swabs or perhaps dental floss. We elaborate these trouble sources. Quoting Weinman [1]. The following examples of things to keep out of a sewage grinder pump system are excerpted from that article.

A more complete list of things that should not be flushed down drains or into septic systems is organized. Most of the sewage ejector pump installations we've inspected in residential properties use 2-inch waste piping to connect the pump outlet to the building sewer line. However the pipe diameter selection is guided by the anticipated flow rate - a figure that you can find in your ejector pump's installation and operations manual.

Below we quote from Hyromatic [3]. Technical review by industry experts has been performed and is ongoing - reviewers welcomed and are listed at "References. Depending on the lift height and other site conditions there are two sorts of vents one may find on any lift, grinder, or ejector pump or sump pump:. A vent from pneumatic sewage ejectors, or similar equipment, that terminates separately to the open air. Your grinder pump is powered by electricity and will not function during a power outage.

In order to prevent waste from backing up into the lowest sink, tub, or toilet in your home, severely limit the interior use of water until power is restored. This means do not shower or wash dishes and limit flushing the toilet. I have a residential lift pump station in my home. It has been installed for about 25 years downstairs in my home and services the downstairs bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet and a bar sink, with little if any problems.

There is very little use on this system as we have all of our appliances and upstairs bathrooms going directly to our municipal sewer system. My problem is that the lift station pump motor cuts in about every 4 hours even when there has been no waste water going into the tank from the devices that it serves.

It goes through it's normal pumping action for about 15 to 20 seconds and stops and this repeats almost every 4 hours. Don't know what is causing this as we have been very careful not to put anything in it that could clog the system since we had it installed. This happened about a year ago in July, went back to normal operation over the fall, winter and spring and now it is happening again in August. Can you suggest what may be causing this intermittent problem.

I purchased a new pump last year so I would have a back up but prefer not to have to install it unless absolutely necessary. Could it be that the baffle on the main sewer line going from my house may be clogging occasionally and staying open and causing water to come back into the lift station downstairs and causing the pump to cut in?

Thank you very much for your earliest reply and any assistance that you may be able to give. You probably are using a sewage grinder pump for which we offer diagnosis and repair help online in this article serise beginning.

You're astute to suggest the possibility of sewage backflow into your pumping station, perhaps at a slow-enough rate that it takes a rather regular number of hours before the sewage pump has to cycle on again. I suggest taking a look in the pumping chamber at the end of a pump-on cycle.

Make note of the remaining wastewater level at the end of the pump cycle. If you see the wastewater rise in the pumping chamber then we need to decide where it's coming from.

Look for an immediate backflow into the chamber from the pump's ejector drain line: that would indicate a bad check valve that's allowing wastewater to fall back into the pit, causing more frequent cycling than needed and shortening pump life. You may be able to see the building wastewater pipe that enters the pumping chamber from the building fixtures.

If that line is not flowing then look for more slowly-rising wastewater backflowing from the exit drain line. Check the wastewater level in the pumping chamber every hour. The freestanding or aboveground sewage-ejector system is another waste removal option that does not require cutting through concrete.

These systems are typically housed within an enclosure, and the toilet usually not included sits on top. These systems are essentially mini septic tanks. Because sewage-ejector units sit aboveground, fixtures like toilets and showers or baths will have to be elevated about six inches to gravity-drain into the tank. Saniflo also sells similar graywater and sewage-ejection systems designed specifically for bathtubs, showers, laundry units, and kitchen sinks.

Belowground sewage-ejector systems are the least expensive option, but are complicated to install. These tank-and-pump units are designed to sit in a hole in the basement floor, allowing floor fixtures to gravity-drain into the tank. These units vary in size, but are typically twenty inches in diameter and thirty inches in depth. The holding-tank capacity generally ranges from thirty to forty gallons. Now you can pretty much drop it in the ground and tie it in. The true cost, however, is in the installation.

Cutting through a concrete slab to dig the hole for the unit, as well as any drainage pipes from additional basement fixtures, will set the homeowner back a pretty penny. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. The distance helps in preventing the float switch from clogging.

Put the basin lid on and ensure that the pipes from the sump basin can adequately fit the lid cover holes. The three holes serve the vent pipe, the drainage pipe, and the electrical cords. The basin lid also comes with screws, three grommets, and a gasket. Fix the gasket in the inner basin cover for complete sealing. Ensure that the lip of the tank is clean before you rip off the gasket to stick effectively.

There are three more gaskets for the basin cover. The gaskets help to ensure that no gas escapes to the basement. In this step, you install the grommets around the cords and the pipes. There are two holes on the cord grommet split into either side for them to go through the gap smoothly. Fix the grommets to the cover holes by pushing them to stick to the lid of the basin.

When fixing the pipe grommets, place the gasket before you place the grommet. Use and attach the basin cover with the bolts and washers provided and also consider applying a lubricant on the bolts and screws to prevent rust.

It would be best if you had a check valve since its primary function is to prevent the waste water from flowing back to the tank. Install the valve horizontally as per recommendations and include an optional yet essential ball valve on top.

The ball valve is useful when you want to disconnect sludge flow and stop waste from going back to the check valve, especially during pump repair or replacement. To have a sewage pump that works efficiently, you must know a few maintenance tips. Proper maintenance ensures that the sewage pump can give you service for a long time without expensive repairs.

A few tips for doing this include:. Find out more tips on septic tank here. This step by step guide towards the installation of a basement ejector pump will effectively help you in carrying out the task. A sewage ejector pump can last to about eight years, considerably long time with adequate maintenance.